Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
